This ancient little market town, pronounced "Bellinjum", nestles at the foot of some of the wildest and most barren fells in Northumberland. There are medieval references to Bellingham Castle belonging to the King of Scotland's forester, but sadly no trace remains.

St Cuthbert's Church is unusual with its stone roof and extremely narrow windows. Both features were included as a defence against the marauding Scots who twice burnt it to the ground. In its graveyard lies the famous "Lang Pack" grave which is associated with one of Northumberland's most notorious tales of murder, intrigue and deception. One day a peddler (a tinker, not a cyclist) came to Lee Hall, the home of a landed local gentleman and asked if he could leave his backpack there while he attended to an errand in the village. The maid said yes, and it was lett in the kitchen.

She noted how big and broad the connicle shaped pack was, but thought no more about it. The gypsy failed to return that day and during the night she came down with a candle and noticed the pack had marginally moved. She ran and fetched old Richards, the wrinked retainer, who blasted it with a blunderbuss. There followed much blood and whimpering, then silence. Inside was the corpse of a criminal whose dastardly plan was to rob and murder the household in the dead of night. He got more than he baragined for. His grave lies in the churchyard, dated 1723. A plot well foiled!

There is also the St Cuthbert's Well, dedicated to the saint and a welcome addition for thirsty Pennine Way walkers, as it is right next to the pathway for Britain's most famous walk.On the edge of the Northumberland National Park on the North Tyne river, the Bellingham area is a noted spawning ground for salmon, sea trout, brown trout and the `Kielder' rainbow. It has two caravan sites, a campsite, youth hostel, four pubs and hotels and just about everything else including a haberdashery, gym and library. Also, it is a proper place - not (yet) a haven for second home-owners.

The annual agricultural show in the summer (last Saturday in August) is a big attraction with a country fair and Cumberland Westmorland wrestling and Northumbrian piping.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Hareshaw Linn superb waterfall, >1km walk

St Cuthbert's (Cuddy's) Well Reputed to be healing water

Tourist Information Centre Main St 01434 220616

Heritage Centre local history 01434 220050. Excellent background about Reivers, Border counties railway which ran from Hexham to Bellingham and across the border. Recreation of old mine workings, plus shop of local eearly 20-c photographer W.P. Collier.

BIKE REPAIRS

Village Country Store 01434 220027

The route now goes out of Bellingham following signs for Wark and Hexham. Cross the North Tyne, turn right and follow the south bank. You are now in the Northumberland National Park. Continue for about 7km to the T-junction where you go right back over the Tyne. There follows a climb into Lanehead follwed by a lett. Close just beyond the remains of Tarset Castle onto the Falstone road.

4. Bellingham		Back to
John Cocker		Riverdale Hall Hotel, Bellingham, Northumberland NE48 2JT
Email		reservations@riverdalehallhotel.co.uk
Web		www.riverdalehallhotel.co.uk
Tel		01434 220 254
Fax		01434 220 457
Rooms		33 rooms with every conceivable configuration. Ideal for groups.
B&B		£36-£49
Packed Lunch		from £2.60
Evening meal		Restaurant from £15, bar £9.
2-star		Relais Routier Gold Plate for restaurant (only one in Northumberland)

Country house sporting hotel, own swimming pool, sauna, salmon river, cricket field, golf opposite plus all the cycling and walking routes. Real ale in bar. Cocker's 30th year.

Joyce Gaskin		Lyndale Guest House, Riversidewalk, Bellingham, Northumberland NE48 2AW
Tel		01434 220 361
Web		www.lyndaleguesthouse.co.uk
Email		lyndaleguesthouse@hotmail.com
Rooms		1S, 2D, 1T, 1suite (2 jacuzzi bathrooms)
B&B		£30-£45 (single occ of double).
Packed Lunch		£5
Laundry		Pub 30m
4 star VisitBritain		Welcome Host Award

Relax in the sun lounge overlooking the Pennine Way. Look forward to a jacuzzi bath! And tea and biscuits in the garden after a wonderful day out in the countryside.